What causes blue tint of my photos and how to get rid of it?












2














I am trying to make a 3D model of a building using a series of photos.



This is a photo I took yesterday:



enter image description here



This one I took today, when I was trying to continue from that point:



enter image description here



Yesterday's sky was cloudy, while today it was completely gray and grim and dark.



This is probably what causes reduced contrast and blue tint in the second photo.



Structure From Motion algorithms are very sensitive to changes in colors like that. I need to find a way to fix the color palette of the second batch of photos to make it closer to the first.



How can I compensate for the difference in post processing?










share|improve this question



























    2














    I am trying to make a 3D model of a building using a series of photos.



    This is a photo I took yesterday:



    enter image description here



    This one I took today, when I was trying to continue from that point:



    enter image description here



    Yesterday's sky was cloudy, while today it was completely gray and grim and dark.



    This is probably what causes reduced contrast and blue tint in the second photo.



    Structure From Motion algorithms are very sensitive to changes in colors like that. I need to find a way to fix the color palette of the second batch of photos to make it closer to the first.



    How can I compensate for the difference in post processing?










    share|improve this question

























      2












      2








      2







      I am trying to make a 3D model of a building using a series of photos.



      This is a photo I took yesterday:



      enter image description here



      This one I took today, when I was trying to continue from that point:



      enter image description here



      Yesterday's sky was cloudy, while today it was completely gray and grim and dark.



      This is probably what causes reduced contrast and blue tint in the second photo.



      Structure From Motion algorithms are very sensitive to changes in colors like that. I need to find a way to fix the color palette of the second batch of photos to make it closer to the first.



      How can I compensate for the difference in post processing?










      share|improve this question













      I am trying to make a 3D model of a building using a series of photos.



      This is a photo I took yesterday:



      enter image description here



      This one I took today, when I was trying to continue from that point:



      enter image description here



      Yesterday's sky was cloudy, while today it was completely gray and grim and dark.



      This is probably what causes reduced contrast and blue tint in the second photo.



      Structure From Motion algorithms are very sensitive to changes in colors like that. I need to find a way to fix the color palette of the second batch of photos to make it closer to the first.



      How can I compensate for the difference in post processing?







      post-processing color-correction






      share|improve this question













      share|improve this question











      share|improve this question




      share|improve this question










      asked 4 hours ago









      Tomáš Zato

      1163




      1163






















          2 Answers
          2






          active

          oldest

          votes


















          2














          Spot on color balance is achieved by photographing a grey card or grey/white/black card or, if you want to get fancy, a color checker passport.



          Use these as the baseline points in post processing to set your white bal for all the shots taken in the same lighting. (Or, one can usually set custom white bal in camera. Dealer’s choice)



          Because your target remains the same, the white bal between shots in different lighting becomes much more stable.






          share|improve this answer





















          • Can I do the same approach with the photos I already have? I have two sets of 300 photos, each with different lighting and therefore colors. I just don't know how to find the "difference" that could be applied on the entire set.
            – Tomáš Zato
            47 mins ago



















          1














          On fair days the world is illuminated by a combination of sunlight and skylight. On overcast days, the world is illuminated by skylight only. Now skylight is very blue thus images reproduce with a blueish tint. If you were using color slide film, the remedy is to mount a warming filter. The most popular is the Wratten 1A (Kodak trade name) commonly called a “Skylight”. We mount such a filter to warm our images. The 1A is pale pink and absorbs ultraviolet as it reduces excess bluishness. This filter is effective when the principle subject is in “open shade” under a clear blue sky.



          In digital photography we can mount warming filters however, your camera features “white balance”. This is a camera setting designed to neutralize a color cast induced by the ambient light source color. Additionally clever use of “white balance” can be used to intentionally alter the color balance of an image.



          To mediate the bluish cast of your images make sure “white balance” is turned on. If you review your camera manual’s “white balance” instructions, you will discover that you can use a white placard as a target. This method of use causes the camera’s logic to preview the color of the ambient light and subsequently apply a correction. You can use this method to effectively neutralize an off-color cast. Additionally, most image editing software allows post camera exposure corrections to the color balance of images. Peruse the instruction manual that covers the imaging software you are using. Take the tutorial, you can do this!






          share|improve this answer





















          • I also have white balance filter in image editors. But the problem is that I need to "balance" the photos to be the same, not just get the colors correct. The software I use requires that. When I try white balance in my camera or an editor, the photos do look better, but they still have wildly different color palletes, causing the 3D reconstruction to fail.
            – Tomáš Zato
            3 hours ago











          Your Answer








          StackExchange.ready(function() {
          var channelOptions = {
          tags: "".split(" "),
          id: "61"
          };
          initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);

          StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function() {
          // Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
          if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled) {
          StackExchange.using("snippets", function() {
          createEditor();
          });
          }
          else {
          createEditor();
          }
          });

          function createEditor() {
          StackExchange.prepareEditor({
          heartbeatType: 'answer',
          autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
          convertImagesToLinks: false,
          noModals: true,
          showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
          reputationToPostImages: null,
          bindNavPrevention: true,
          postfix: "",
          imageUploader: {
          brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
          contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
          allowUrls: true
          },
          noCode: true, onDemand: true,
          discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
          ,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
          });


          }
          });














          draft saved

          draft discarded


















          StackExchange.ready(
          function () {
          StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fphoto.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f103896%2fwhat-causes-blue-tint-of-my-photos-and-how-to-get-rid-of-it%23new-answer', 'question_page');
          }
          );

          Post as a guest















          Required, but never shown

























          2 Answers
          2






          active

          oldest

          votes








          2 Answers
          2






          active

          oldest

          votes









          active

          oldest

          votes






          active

          oldest

          votes









          2














          Spot on color balance is achieved by photographing a grey card or grey/white/black card or, if you want to get fancy, a color checker passport.



          Use these as the baseline points in post processing to set your white bal for all the shots taken in the same lighting. (Or, one can usually set custom white bal in camera. Dealer’s choice)



          Because your target remains the same, the white bal between shots in different lighting becomes much more stable.






          share|improve this answer





















          • Can I do the same approach with the photos I already have? I have two sets of 300 photos, each with different lighting and therefore colors. I just don't know how to find the "difference" that could be applied on the entire set.
            – Tomáš Zato
            47 mins ago
















          2














          Spot on color balance is achieved by photographing a grey card or grey/white/black card or, if you want to get fancy, a color checker passport.



          Use these as the baseline points in post processing to set your white bal for all the shots taken in the same lighting. (Or, one can usually set custom white bal in camera. Dealer’s choice)



          Because your target remains the same, the white bal between shots in different lighting becomes much more stable.






          share|improve this answer





















          • Can I do the same approach with the photos I already have? I have two sets of 300 photos, each with different lighting and therefore colors. I just don't know how to find the "difference" that could be applied on the entire set.
            – Tomáš Zato
            47 mins ago














          2












          2








          2






          Spot on color balance is achieved by photographing a grey card or grey/white/black card or, if you want to get fancy, a color checker passport.



          Use these as the baseline points in post processing to set your white bal for all the shots taken in the same lighting. (Or, one can usually set custom white bal in camera. Dealer’s choice)



          Because your target remains the same, the white bal between shots in different lighting becomes much more stable.






          share|improve this answer












          Spot on color balance is achieved by photographing a grey card or grey/white/black card or, if you want to get fancy, a color checker passport.



          Use these as the baseline points in post processing to set your white bal for all the shots taken in the same lighting. (Or, one can usually set custom white bal in camera. Dealer’s choice)



          Because your target remains the same, the white bal between shots in different lighting becomes much more stable.







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered 2 hours ago









          Hueco

          10.4k32549




          10.4k32549












          • Can I do the same approach with the photos I already have? I have two sets of 300 photos, each with different lighting and therefore colors. I just don't know how to find the "difference" that could be applied on the entire set.
            – Tomáš Zato
            47 mins ago


















          • Can I do the same approach with the photos I already have? I have two sets of 300 photos, each with different lighting and therefore colors. I just don't know how to find the "difference" that could be applied on the entire set.
            – Tomáš Zato
            47 mins ago
















          Can I do the same approach with the photos I already have? I have two sets of 300 photos, each with different lighting and therefore colors. I just don't know how to find the "difference" that could be applied on the entire set.
          – Tomáš Zato
          47 mins ago




          Can I do the same approach with the photos I already have? I have two sets of 300 photos, each with different lighting and therefore colors. I just don't know how to find the "difference" that could be applied on the entire set.
          – Tomáš Zato
          47 mins ago













          1














          On fair days the world is illuminated by a combination of sunlight and skylight. On overcast days, the world is illuminated by skylight only. Now skylight is very blue thus images reproduce with a blueish tint. If you were using color slide film, the remedy is to mount a warming filter. The most popular is the Wratten 1A (Kodak trade name) commonly called a “Skylight”. We mount such a filter to warm our images. The 1A is pale pink and absorbs ultraviolet as it reduces excess bluishness. This filter is effective when the principle subject is in “open shade” under a clear blue sky.



          In digital photography we can mount warming filters however, your camera features “white balance”. This is a camera setting designed to neutralize a color cast induced by the ambient light source color. Additionally clever use of “white balance” can be used to intentionally alter the color balance of an image.



          To mediate the bluish cast of your images make sure “white balance” is turned on. If you review your camera manual’s “white balance” instructions, you will discover that you can use a white placard as a target. This method of use causes the camera’s logic to preview the color of the ambient light and subsequently apply a correction. You can use this method to effectively neutralize an off-color cast. Additionally, most image editing software allows post camera exposure corrections to the color balance of images. Peruse the instruction manual that covers the imaging software you are using. Take the tutorial, you can do this!






          share|improve this answer





















          • I also have white balance filter in image editors. But the problem is that I need to "balance" the photos to be the same, not just get the colors correct. The software I use requires that. When I try white balance in my camera or an editor, the photos do look better, but they still have wildly different color palletes, causing the 3D reconstruction to fail.
            – Tomáš Zato
            3 hours ago
















          1














          On fair days the world is illuminated by a combination of sunlight and skylight. On overcast days, the world is illuminated by skylight only. Now skylight is very blue thus images reproduce with a blueish tint. If you were using color slide film, the remedy is to mount a warming filter. The most popular is the Wratten 1A (Kodak trade name) commonly called a “Skylight”. We mount such a filter to warm our images. The 1A is pale pink and absorbs ultraviolet as it reduces excess bluishness. This filter is effective when the principle subject is in “open shade” under a clear blue sky.



          In digital photography we can mount warming filters however, your camera features “white balance”. This is a camera setting designed to neutralize a color cast induced by the ambient light source color. Additionally clever use of “white balance” can be used to intentionally alter the color balance of an image.



          To mediate the bluish cast of your images make sure “white balance” is turned on. If you review your camera manual’s “white balance” instructions, you will discover that you can use a white placard as a target. This method of use causes the camera’s logic to preview the color of the ambient light and subsequently apply a correction. You can use this method to effectively neutralize an off-color cast. Additionally, most image editing software allows post camera exposure corrections to the color balance of images. Peruse the instruction manual that covers the imaging software you are using. Take the tutorial, you can do this!






          share|improve this answer





















          • I also have white balance filter in image editors. But the problem is that I need to "balance" the photos to be the same, not just get the colors correct. The software I use requires that. When I try white balance in my camera or an editor, the photos do look better, but they still have wildly different color palletes, causing the 3D reconstruction to fail.
            – Tomáš Zato
            3 hours ago














          1












          1








          1






          On fair days the world is illuminated by a combination of sunlight and skylight. On overcast days, the world is illuminated by skylight only. Now skylight is very blue thus images reproduce with a blueish tint. If you were using color slide film, the remedy is to mount a warming filter. The most popular is the Wratten 1A (Kodak trade name) commonly called a “Skylight”. We mount such a filter to warm our images. The 1A is pale pink and absorbs ultraviolet as it reduces excess bluishness. This filter is effective when the principle subject is in “open shade” under a clear blue sky.



          In digital photography we can mount warming filters however, your camera features “white balance”. This is a camera setting designed to neutralize a color cast induced by the ambient light source color. Additionally clever use of “white balance” can be used to intentionally alter the color balance of an image.



          To mediate the bluish cast of your images make sure “white balance” is turned on. If you review your camera manual’s “white balance” instructions, you will discover that you can use a white placard as a target. This method of use causes the camera’s logic to preview the color of the ambient light and subsequently apply a correction. You can use this method to effectively neutralize an off-color cast. Additionally, most image editing software allows post camera exposure corrections to the color balance of images. Peruse the instruction manual that covers the imaging software you are using. Take the tutorial, you can do this!






          share|improve this answer












          On fair days the world is illuminated by a combination of sunlight and skylight. On overcast days, the world is illuminated by skylight only. Now skylight is very blue thus images reproduce with a blueish tint. If you were using color slide film, the remedy is to mount a warming filter. The most popular is the Wratten 1A (Kodak trade name) commonly called a “Skylight”. We mount such a filter to warm our images. The 1A is pale pink and absorbs ultraviolet as it reduces excess bluishness. This filter is effective when the principle subject is in “open shade” under a clear blue sky.



          In digital photography we can mount warming filters however, your camera features “white balance”. This is a camera setting designed to neutralize a color cast induced by the ambient light source color. Additionally clever use of “white balance” can be used to intentionally alter the color balance of an image.



          To mediate the bluish cast of your images make sure “white balance” is turned on. If you review your camera manual’s “white balance” instructions, you will discover that you can use a white placard as a target. This method of use causes the camera’s logic to preview the color of the ambient light and subsequently apply a correction. You can use this method to effectively neutralize an off-color cast. Additionally, most image editing software allows post camera exposure corrections to the color balance of images. Peruse the instruction manual that covers the imaging software you are using. Take the tutorial, you can do this!







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered 3 hours ago









          Alan Marcus

          24.5k12858




          24.5k12858












          • I also have white balance filter in image editors. But the problem is that I need to "balance" the photos to be the same, not just get the colors correct. The software I use requires that. When I try white balance in my camera or an editor, the photos do look better, but they still have wildly different color palletes, causing the 3D reconstruction to fail.
            – Tomáš Zato
            3 hours ago


















          • I also have white balance filter in image editors. But the problem is that I need to "balance" the photos to be the same, not just get the colors correct. The software I use requires that. When I try white balance in my camera or an editor, the photos do look better, but they still have wildly different color palletes, causing the 3D reconstruction to fail.
            – Tomáš Zato
            3 hours ago
















          I also have white balance filter in image editors. But the problem is that I need to "balance" the photos to be the same, not just get the colors correct. The software I use requires that. When I try white balance in my camera or an editor, the photos do look better, but they still have wildly different color palletes, causing the 3D reconstruction to fail.
          – Tomáš Zato
          3 hours ago




          I also have white balance filter in image editors. But the problem is that I need to "balance" the photos to be the same, not just get the colors correct. The software I use requires that. When I try white balance in my camera or an editor, the photos do look better, but they still have wildly different color palletes, causing the 3D reconstruction to fail.
          – Tomáš Zato
          3 hours ago


















          draft saved

          draft discarded




















































          Thanks for contributing an answer to Photography Stack Exchange!


          • Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!

          But avoid



          • Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.

          • Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.


          To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.





          Some of your past answers have not been well-received, and you're in danger of being blocked from answering.


          Please pay close attention to the following guidance:


          • Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!

          But avoid



          • Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.

          • Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.


          To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.




          draft saved


          draft discarded














          StackExchange.ready(
          function () {
          StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fphoto.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f103896%2fwhat-causes-blue-tint-of-my-photos-and-how-to-get-rid-of-it%23new-answer', 'question_page');
          }
          );

          Post as a guest















          Required, but never shown





















































          Required, but never shown














          Required, but never shown












          Required, but never shown







          Required, but never shown

































          Required, but never shown














          Required, but never shown












          Required, but never shown







          Required, but never shown







          Popular posts from this blog

          Understanding the information contained in the Deep Space Network XML data?

          Ross-on-Wye

          Eastern Orthodox Church