What causes blue tint of my photos and how to get rid of it?
I am trying to make a 3D model of a building using a series of photos.
This is a photo I took yesterday:
This one I took today, when I was trying to continue from that point:
Yesterday's sky was cloudy, while today it was completely gray and grim and dark.
This is probably what causes reduced contrast and blue tint in the second photo.
Structure From Motion algorithms are very sensitive to changes in colors like that. I need to find a way to fix the color palette of the second batch of photos to make it closer to the first.
How can I compensate for the difference in post processing?
post-processing color-correction
add a comment |
I am trying to make a 3D model of a building using a series of photos.
This is a photo I took yesterday:
This one I took today, when I was trying to continue from that point:
Yesterday's sky was cloudy, while today it was completely gray and grim and dark.
This is probably what causes reduced contrast and blue tint in the second photo.
Structure From Motion algorithms are very sensitive to changes in colors like that. I need to find a way to fix the color palette of the second batch of photos to make it closer to the first.
How can I compensate for the difference in post processing?
post-processing color-correction
add a comment |
I am trying to make a 3D model of a building using a series of photos.
This is a photo I took yesterday:
This one I took today, when I was trying to continue from that point:
Yesterday's sky was cloudy, while today it was completely gray and grim and dark.
This is probably what causes reduced contrast and blue tint in the second photo.
Structure From Motion algorithms are very sensitive to changes in colors like that. I need to find a way to fix the color palette of the second batch of photos to make it closer to the first.
How can I compensate for the difference in post processing?
post-processing color-correction
I am trying to make a 3D model of a building using a series of photos.
This is a photo I took yesterday:
This one I took today, when I was trying to continue from that point:
Yesterday's sky was cloudy, while today it was completely gray and grim and dark.
This is probably what causes reduced contrast and blue tint in the second photo.
Structure From Motion algorithms are very sensitive to changes in colors like that. I need to find a way to fix the color palette of the second batch of photos to make it closer to the first.
How can I compensate for the difference in post processing?
post-processing color-correction
post-processing color-correction
asked 4 hours ago
Tomáš Zato
1163
1163
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add a comment |
2 Answers
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Spot on color balance is achieved by photographing a grey card or grey/white/black card or, if you want to get fancy, a color checker passport.
Use these as the baseline points in post processing to set your white bal for all the shots taken in the same lighting. (Or, one can usually set custom white bal in camera. Dealer’s choice)
Because your target remains the same, the white bal between shots in different lighting becomes much more stable.
Can I do the same approach with the photos I already have? I have two sets of 300 photos, each with different lighting and therefore colors. I just don't know how to find the "difference" that could be applied on the entire set.
– Tomáš Zato
47 mins ago
add a comment |
On fair days the world is illuminated by a combination of sunlight and skylight. On overcast days, the world is illuminated by skylight only. Now skylight is very blue thus images reproduce with a blueish tint. If you were using color slide film, the remedy is to mount a warming filter. The most popular is the Wratten 1A (Kodak trade name) commonly called a “Skylight”. We mount such a filter to warm our images. The 1A is pale pink and absorbs ultraviolet as it reduces excess bluishness. This filter is effective when the principle subject is in “open shade” under a clear blue sky.
In digital photography we can mount warming filters however, your camera features “white balance”. This is a camera setting designed to neutralize a color cast induced by the ambient light source color. Additionally clever use of “white balance” can be used to intentionally alter the color balance of an image.
To mediate the bluish cast of your images make sure “white balance” is turned on. If you review your camera manual’s “white balance” instructions, you will discover that you can use a white placard as a target. This method of use causes the camera’s logic to preview the color of the ambient light and subsequently apply a correction. You can use this method to effectively neutralize an off-color cast. Additionally, most image editing software allows post camera exposure corrections to the color balance of images. Peruse the instruction manual that covers the imaging software you are using. Take the tutorial, you can do this!
I also have white balance filter in image editors. But the problem is that I need to "balance" the photos to be the same, not just get the colors correct. The software I use requires that. When I try white balance in my camera or an editor, the photos do look better, but they still have wildly different color palletes, causing the 3D reconstruction to fail.
– Tomáš Zato
3 hours ago
add a comment |
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2 Answers
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2 Answers
2
active
oldest
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active
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votes
Spot on color balance is achieved by photographing a grey card or grey/white/black card or, if you want to get fancy, a color checker passport.
Use these as the baseline points in post processing to set your white bal for all the shots taken in the same lighting. (Or, one can usually set custom white bal in camera. Dealer’s choice)
Because your target remains the same, the white bal between shots in different lighting becomes much more stable.
Can I do the same approach with the photos I already have? I have two sets of 300 photos, each with different lighting and therefore colors. I just don't know how to find the "difference" that could be applied on the entire set.
– Tomáš Zato
47 mins ago
add a comment |
Spot on color balance is achieved by photographing a grey card or grey/white/black card or, if you want to get fancy, a color checker passport.
Use these as the baseline points in post processing to set your white bal for all the shots taken in the same lighting. (Or, one can usually set custom white bal in camera. Dealer’s choice)
Because your target remains the same, the white bal between shots in different lighting becomes much more stable.
Can I do the same approach with the photos I already have? I have two sets of 300 photos, each with different lighting and therefore colors. I just don't know how to find the "difference" that could be applied on the entire set.
– Tomáš Zato
47 mins ago
add a comment |
Spot on color balance is achieved by photographing a grey card or grey/white/black card or, if you want to get fancy, a color checker passport.
Use these as the baseline points in post processing to set your white bal for all the shots taken in the same lighting. (Or, one can usually set custom white bal in camera. Dealer’s choice)
Because your target remains the same, the white bal between shots in different lighting becomes much more stable.
Spot on color balance is achieved by photographing a grey card or grey/white/black card or, if you want to get fancy, a color checker passport.
Use these as the baseline points in post processing to set your white bal for all the shots taken in the same lighting. (Or, one can usually set custom white bal in camera. Dealer’s choice)
Because your target remains the same, the white bal between shots in different lighting becomes much more stable.
answered 2 hours ago
Hueco
10.4k32549
10.4k32549
Can I do the same approach with the photos I already have? I have two sets of 300 photos, each with different lighting and therefore colors. I just don't know how to find the "difference" that could be applied on the entire set.
– Tomáš Zato
47 mins ago
add a comment |
Can I do the same approach with the photos I already have? I have two sets of 300 photos, each with different lighting and therefore colors. I just don't know how to find the "difference" that could be applied on the entire set.
– Tomáš Zato
47 mins ago
Can I do the same approach with the photos I already have? I have two sets of 300 photos, each with different lighting and therefore colors. I just don't know how to find the "difference" that could be applied on the entire set.
– Tomáš Zato
47 mins ago
Can I do the same approach with the photos I already have? I have two sets of 300 photos, each with different lighting and therefore colors. I just don't know how to find the "difference" that could be applied on the entire set.
– Tomáš Zato
47 mins ago
add a comment |
On fair days the world is illuminated by a combination of sunlight and skylight. On overcast days, the world is illuminated by skylight only. Now skylight is very blue thus images reproduce with a blueish tint. If you were using color slide film, the remedy is to mount a warming filter. The most popular is the Wratten 1A (Kodak trade name) commonly called a “Skylight”. We mount such a filter to warm our images. The 1A is pale pink and absorbs ultraviolet as it reduces excess bluishness. This filter is effective when the principle subject is in “open shade” under a clear blue sky.
In digital photography we can mount warming filters however, your camera features “white balance”. This is a camera setting designed to neutralize a color cast induced by the ambient light source color. Additionally clever use of “white balance” can be used to intentionally alter the color balance of an image.
To mediate the bluish cast of your images make sure “white balance” is turned on. If you review your camera manual’s “white balance” instructions, you will discover that you can use a white placard as a target. This method of use causes the camera’s logic to preview the color of the ambient light and subsequently apply a correction. You can use this method to effectively neutralize an off-color cast. Additionally, most image editing software allows post camera exposure corrections to the color balance of images. Peruse the instruction manual that covers the imaging software you are using. Take the tutorial, you can do this!
I also have white balance filter in image editors. But the problem is that I need to "balance" the photos to be the same, not just get the colors correct. The software I use requires that. When I try white balance in my camera or an editor, the photos do look better, but they still have wildly different color palletes, causing the 3D reconstruction to fail.
– Tomáš Zato
3 hours ago
add a comment |
On fair days the world is illuminated by a combination of sunlight and skylight. On overcast days, the world is illuminated by skylight only. Now skylight is very blue thus images reproduce with a blueish tint. If you were using color slide film, the remedy is to mount a warming filter. The most popular is the Wratten 1A (Kodak trade name) commonly called a “Skylight”. We mount such a filter to warm our images. The 1A is pale pink and absorbs ultraviolet as it reduces excess bluishness. This filter is effective when the principle subject is in “open shade” under a clear blue sky.
In digital photography we can mount warming filters however, your camera features “white balance”. This is a camera setting designed to neutralize a color cast induced by the ambient light source color. Additionally clever use of “white balance” can be used to intentionally alter the color balance of an image.
To mediate the bluish cast of your images make sure “white balance” is turned on. If you review your camera manual’s “white balance” instructions, you will discover that you can use a white placard as a target. This method of use causes the camera’s logic to preview the color of the ambient light and subsequently apply a correction. You can use this method to effectively neutralize an off-color cast. Additionally, most image editing software allows post camera exposure corrections to the color balance of images. Peruse the instruction manual that covers the imaging software you are using. Take the tutorial, you can do this!
I also have white balance filter in image editors. But the problem is that I need to "balance" the photos to be the same, not just get the colors correct. The software I use requires that. When I try white balance in my camera or an editor, the photos do look better, but they still have wildly different color palletes, causing the 3D reconstruction to fail.
– Tomáš Zato
3 hours ago
add a comment |
On fair days the world is illuminated by a combination of sunlight and skylight. On overcast days, the world is illuminated by skylight only. Now skylight is very blue thus images reproduce with a blueish tint. If you were using color slide film, the remedy is to mount a warming filter. The most popular is the Wratten 1A (Kodak trade name) commonly called a “Skylight”. We mount such a filter to warm our images. The 1A is pale pink and absorbs ultraviolet as it reduces excess bluishness. This filter is effective when the principle subject is in “open shade” under a clear blue sky.
In digital photography we can mount warming filters however, your camera features “white balance”. This is a camera setting designed to neutralize a color cast induced by the ambient light source color. Additionally clever use of “white balance” can be used to intentionally alter the color balance of an image.
To mediate the bluish cast of your images make sure “white balance” is turned on. If you review your camera manual’s “white balance” instructions, you will discover that you can use a white placard as a target. This method of use causes the camera’s logic to preview the color of the ambient light and subsequently apply a correction. You can use this method to effectively neutralize an off-color cast. Additionally, most image editing software allows post camera exposure corrections to the color balance of images. Peruse the instruction manual that covers the imaging software you are using. Take the tutorial, you can do this!
On fair days the world is illuminated by a combination of sunlight and skylight. On overcast days, the world is illuminated by skylight only. Now skylight is very blue thus images reproduce with a blueish tint. If you were using color slide film, the remedy is to mount a warming filter. The most popular is the Wratten 1A (Kodak trade name) commonly called a “Skylight”. We mount such a filter to warm our images. The 1A is pale pink and absorbs ultraviolet as it reduces excess bluishness. This filter is effective when the principle subject is in “open shade” under a clear blue sky.
In digital photography we can mount warming filters however, your camera features “white balance”. This is a camera setting designed to neutralize a color cast induced by the ambient light source color. Additionally clever use of “white balance” can be used to intentionally alter the color balance of an image.
To mediate the bluish cast of your images make sure “white balance” is turned on. If you review your camera manual’s “white balance” instructions, you will discover that you can use a white placard as a target. This method of use causes the camera’s logic to preview the color of the ambient light and subsequently apply a correction. You can use this method to effectively neutralize an off-color cast. Additionally, most image editing software allows post camera exposure corrections to the color balance of images. Peruse the instruction manual that covers the imaging software you are using. Take the tutorial, you can do this!
answered 3 hours ago
Alan Marcus
24.5k12858
24.5k12858
I also have white balance filter in image editors. But the problem is that I need to "balance" the photos to be the same, not just get the colors correct. The software I use requires that. When I try white balance in my camera or an editor, the photos do look better, but they still have wildly different color palletes, causing the 3D reconstruction to fail.
– Tomáš Zato
3 hours ago
add a comment |
I also have white balance filter in image editors. But the problem is that I need to "balance" the photos to be the same, not just get the colors correct. The software I use requires that. When I try white balance in my camera or an editor, the photos do look better, but they still have wildly different color palletes, causing the 3D reconstruction to fail.
– Tomáš Zato
3 hours ago
I also have white balance filter in image editors. But the problem is that I need to "balance" the photos to be the same, not just get the colors correct. The software I use requires that. When I try white balance in my camera or an editor, the photos do look better, but they still have wildly different color palletes, causing the 3D reconstruction to fail.
– Tomáš Zato
3 hours ago
I also have white balance filter in image editors. But the problem is that I need to "balance" the photos to be the same, not just get the colors correct. The software I use requires that. When I try white balance in my camera or an editor, the photos do look better, but they still have wildly different color palletes, causing the 3D reconstruction to fail.
– Tomáš Zato
3 hours ago
add a comment |
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