How can I provide an electrical outlet at my portable kitchen island?












2














I want to use appliances on my kitchen island but don't want it to be built in. If I hang a pendant light and install a lamp holder outlet adapter into a light bulb socket. Is this dangerous or a violation of code? I would wire the lighting like I would for electrical outlets in the kitchen and provide a GFCI upstream. I don't see anything in the code about hanging outlets in the kitchen.










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  • 1




    Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. So, you're thinking to have a hanging light, screw in an outlet adaptor, and then plug your kitchen tools into the adaptor? I'm reeeeally dubious about that...
    – Daniel Griscom
    3 hours ago












  • Seems like a reasonable idea to me. What's the concern?
    – isherwood
    1 hour ago






  • 1




    I would think it would be preferable to install an outlet in the floor under the island. You could mount a power strip in the island and plug it into the floor. I guess it depends how often you would be moving the island and if you care what the floor looks like under it.
    – Jerrad
    1 hour ago
















2














I want to use appliances on my kitchen island but don't want it to be built in. If I hang a pendant light and install a lamp holder outlet adapter into a light bulb socket. Is this dangerous or a violation of code? I would wire the lighting like I would for electrical outlets in the kitchen and provide a GFCI upstream. I don't see anything in the code about hanging outlets in the kitchen.










share|improve this question









New contributor




Jacqueline Jackson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
















  • 1




    Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. So, you're thinking to have a hanging light, screw in an outlet adaptor, and then plug your kitchen tools into the adaptor? I'm reeeeally dubious about that...
    – Daniel Griscom
    3 hours ago












  • Seems like a reasonable idea to me. What's the concern?
    – isherwood
    1 hour ago






  • 1




    I would think it would be preferable to install an outlet in the floor under the island. You could mount a power strip in the island and plug it into the floor. I guess it depends how often you would be moving the island and if you care what the floor looks like under it.
    – Jerrad
    1 hour ago














2












2








2







I want to use appliances on my kitchen island but don't want it to be built in. If I hang a pendant light and install a lamp holder outlet adapter into a light bulb socket. Is this dangerous or a violation of code? I would wire the lighting like I would for electrical outlets in the kitchen and provide a GFCI upstream. I don't see anything in the code about hanging outlets in the kitchen.










share|improve this question









New contributor




Jacqueline Jackson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











I want to use appliances on my kitchen island but don't want it to be built in. If I hang a pendant light and install a lamp holder outlet adapter into a light bulb socket. Is this dangerous or a violation of code? I would wire the lighting like I would for electrical outlets in the kitchen and provide a GFCI upstream. I don't see anything in the code about hanging outlets in the kitchen.







electrical kitchens island






share|improve this question









New contributor




Jacqueline Jackson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









New contributor




Jacqueline Jackson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 1 hour ago









isherwood

44.9k453115




44.9k453115






New contributor




Jacqueline Jackson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked 3 hours ago









Jacqueline Jackson

111




111




New contributor




Jacqueline Jackson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





Jacqueline Jackson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






Jacqueline Jackson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








  • 1




    Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. So, you're thinking to have a hanging light, screw in an outlet adaptor, and then plug your kitchen tools into the adaptor? I'm reeeeally dubious about that...
    – Daniel Griscom
    3 hours ago












  • Seems like a reasonable idea to me. What's the concern?
    – isherwood
    1 hour ago






  • 1




    I would think it would be preferable to install an outlet in the floor under the island. You could mount a power strip in the island and plug it into the floor. I guess it depends how often you would be moving the island and if you care what the floor looks like under it.
    – Jerrad
    1 hour ago














  • 1




    Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. So, you're thinking to have a hanging light, screw in an outlet adaptor, and then plug your kitchen tools into the adaptor? I'm reeeeally dubious about that...
    – Daniel Griscom
    3 hours ago












  • Seems like a reasonable idea to me. What's the concern?
    – isherwood
    1 hour ago






  • 1




    I would think it would be preferable to install an outlet in the floor under the island. You could mount a power strip in the island and plug it into the floor. I guess it depends how often you would be moving the island and if you care what the floor looks like under it.
    – Jerrad
    1 hour ago








1




1




Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. So, you're thinking to have a hanging light, screw in an outlet adaptor, and then plug your kitchen tools into the adaptor? I'm reeeeally dubious about that...
– Daniel Griscom
3 hours ago






Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. So, you're thinking to have a hanging light, screw in an outlet adaptor, and then plug your kitchen tools into the adaptor? I'm reeeeally dubious about that...
– Daniel Griscom
3 hours ago














Seems like a reasonable idea to me. What's the concern?
– isherwood
1 hour ago




Seems like a reasonable idea to me. What's the concern?
– isherwood
1 hour ago




1




1




I would think it would be preferable to install an outlet in the floor under the island. You could mount a power strip in the island and plug it into the floor. I guess it depends how often you would be moving the island and if you care what the floor looks like under it.
– Jerrad
1 hour ago




I would think it would be preferable to install an outlet in the floor under the island. You could mount a power strip in the island and plug it into the floor. I guess it depends how often you would be moving the island and if you care what the floor looks like under it.
– Jerrad
1 hour ago










2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















6














There are pendants and there are pendants. An item like this Power Pendant Outlet Drop is designed for the purpose you describe. An ordinary residential grade hanging light is NOT. There are a few possible issues:




  • An ordinary hanging light fixture is designed to carry the weight of the fixture. It is not designed to handle frequent manipulation and the stress of daily plugging/unplugging of appliances.


  • An ordinary light fixture (hanging or a table lamp or whatever) will often have smaller size wire than needed for a full 15A or 20A circuit because the requirements (and associated UL testing/rating) are based on the fixture having a maximum continuous usage far lower than 15A or 20A. For example, a 6-bulb chandelier might be rated for 6 x 60W = 360W == 3A continuous usage. Therefore, it can have 18 AWG wires from the bulbs on up to the ceiling box. You do NOT want to run your toaster oven on 18 AWG wires.


  • Grounding - I do not know if ANY edison-base to receptacle adapters are available with proper 3-wire grounded receptacles. I know the ones I Google'd now (UL listed, name brand) are NOT grounded, and I suspect that by design it is not possible to have such an adapter properly grounded.


  • GFCI - If the lighting circuit is on a GFCI breaker (or downstream "Load" of a GFCI receptacle) then you are protected (and this helps mitigate the grounding concern). But if that is not the case then you would need to retrofit a GFCI breaker. If you can't do that (e.g., old fuse box or double-stuff breakers) then you are going against modern code for kitchen receptacles.



In short: This is not a good idea unless you are prepared to install a "real" pendant power source.



As far as the alternative of a floor outlet - that can easily solve most of these issues. However, a floor outlet will be too far away for modern kitchen appliances that typically have (based on modern kitchen electrical code) ~ 2 - 3 ft. cords. A hanging pendant (of the right type) does not have that problem.






share|improve this answer























  • I fully agree that most lights would not have large enough wires, in industrial facilities we have pendants in many locations in work areas above tables where a floor outlet would not stand up with proper cord grips and strain reliefs it won't look as nice as I would want in my home but it would be the proper way to do it.
    – Ed Beal
    36 mins ago










  • It depends on the "look". If you want an "artistic" look, this is a "NO". But if you go for steel counters & appliances and "commercial" look (i.e., professional chef wannabe) then a proper pendant might fit in just fine.
    – manassehkatz
    28 mins ago



















3














The only problem I can see is that the wiring internal to a pendant lamp is probably not rated for the 20A that is typically needed for kitchen outlets.



Another option might be a flush mounted floor outlet:



floor outlet






share|improve this answer





















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    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes








    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    6














    There are pendants and there are pendants. An item like this Power Pendant Outlet Drop is designed for the purpose you describe. An ordinary residential grade hanging light is NOT. There are a few possible issues:




    • An ordinary hanging light fixture is designed to carry the weight of the fixture. It is not designed to handle frequent manipulation and the stress of daily plugging/unplugging of appliances.


    • An ordinary light fixture (hanging or a table lamp or whatever) will often have smaller size wire than needed for a full 15A or 20A circuit because the requirements (and associated UL testing/rating) are based on the fixture having a maximum continuous usage far lower than 15A or 20A. For example, a 6-bulb chandelier might be rated for 6 x 60W = 360W == 3A continuous usage. Therefore, it can have 18 AWG wires from the bulbs on up to the ceiling box. You do NOT want to run your toaster oven on 18 AWG wires.


    • Grounding - I do not know if ANY edison-base to receptacle adapters are available with proper 3-wire grounded receptacles. I know the ones I Google'd now (UL listed, name brand) are NOT grounded, and I suspect that by design it is not possible to have such an adapter properly grounded.


    • GFCI - If the lighting circuit is on a GFCI breaker (or downstream "Load" of a GFCI receptacle) then you are protected (and this helps mitigate the grounding concern). But if that is not the case then you would need to retrofit a GFCI breaker. If you can't do that (e.g., old fuse box or double-stuff breakers) then you are going against modern code for kitchen receptacles.



    In short: This is not a good idea unless you are prepared to install a "real" pendant power source.



    As far as the alternative of a floor outlet - that can easily solve most of these issues. However, a floor outlet will be too far away for modern kitchen appliances that typically have (based on modern kitchen electrical code) ~ 2 - 3 ft. cords. A hanging pendant (of the right type) does not have that problem.






    share|improve this answer























    • I fully agree that most lights would not have large enough wires, in industrial facilities we have pendants in many locations in work areas above tables where a floor outlet would not stand up with proper cord grips and strain reliefs it won't look as nice as I would want in my home but it would be the proper way to do it.
      – Ed Beal
      36 mins ago










    • It depends on the "look". If you want an "artistic" look, this is a "NO". But if you go for steel counters & appliances and "commercial" look (i.e., professional chef wannabe) then a proper pendant might fit in just fine.
      – manassehkatz
      28 mins ago
















    6














    There are pendants and there are pendants. An item like this Power Pendant Outlet Drop is designed for the purpose you describe. An ordinary residential grade hanging light is NOT. There are a few possible issues:




    • An ordinary hanging light fixture is designed to carry the weight of the fixture. It is not designed to handle frequent manipulation and the stress of daily plugging/unplugging of appliances.


    • An ordinary light fixture (hanging or a table lamp or whatever) will often have smaller size wire than needed for a full 15A or 20A circuit because the requirements (and associated UL testing/rating) are based on the fixture having a maximum continuous usage far lower than 15A or 20A. For example, a 6-bulb chandelier might be rated for 6 x 60W = 360W == 3A continuous usage. Therefore, it can have 18 AWG wires from the bulbs on up to the ceiling box. You do NOT want to run your toaster oven on 18 AWG wires.


    • Grounding - I do not know if ANY edison-base to receptacle adapters are available with proper 3-wire grounded receptacles. I know the ones I Google'd now (UL listed, name brand) are NOT grounded, and I suspect that by design it is not possible to have such an adapter properly grounded.


    • GFCI - If the lighting circuit is on a GFCI breaker (or downstream "Load" of a GFCI receptacle) then you are protected (and this helps mitigate the grounding concern). But if that is not the case then you would need to retrofit a GFCI breaker. If you can't do that (e.g., old fuse box or double-stuff breakers) then you are going against modern code for kitchen receptacles.



    In short: This is not a good idea unless you are prepared to install a "real" pendant power source.



    As far as the alternative of a floor outlet - that can easily solve most of these issues. However, a floor outlet will be too far away for modern kitchen appliances that typically have (based on modern kitchen electrical code) ~ 2 - 3 ft. cords. A hanging pendant (of the right type) does not have that problem.






    share|improve this answer























    • I fully agree that most lights would not have large enough wires, in industrial facilities we have pendants in many locations in work areas above tables where a floor outlet would not stand up with proper cord grips and strain reliefs it won't look as nice as I would want in my home but it would be the proper way to do it.
      – Ed Beal
      36 mins ago










    • It depends on the "look". If you want an "artistic" look, this is a "NO". But if you go for steel counters & appliances and "commercial" look (i.e., professional chef wannabe) then a proper pendant might fit in just fine.
      – manassehkatz
      28 mins ago














    6












    6








    6






    There are pendants and there are pendants. An item like this Power Pendant Outlet Drop is designed for the purpose you describe. An ordinary residential grade hanging light is NOT. There are a few possible issues:




    • An ordinary hanging light fixture is designed to carry the weight of the fixture. It is not designed to handle frequent manipulation and the stress of daily plugging/unplugging of appliances.


    • An ordinary light fixture (hanging or a table lamp or whatever) will often have smaller size wire than needed for a full 15A or 20A circuit because the requirements (and associated UL testing/rating) are based on the fixture having a maximum continuous usage far lower than 15A or 20A. For example, a 6-bulb chandelier might be rated for 6 x 60W = 360W == 3A continuous usage. Therefore, it can have 18 AWG wires from the bulbs on up to the ceiling box. You do NOT want to run your toaster oven on 18 AWG wires.


    • Grounding - I do not know if ANY edison-base to receptacle adapters are available with proper 3-wire grounded receptacles. I know the ones I Google'd now (UL listed, name brand) are NOT grounded, and I suspect that by design it is not possible to have such an adapter properly grounded.


    • GFCI - If the lighting circuit is on a GFCI breaker (or downstream "Load" of a GFCI receptacle) then you are protected (and this helps mitigate the grounding concern). But if that is not the case then you would need to retrofit a GFCI breaker. If you can't do that (e.g., old fuse box or double-stuff breakers) then you are going against modern code for kitchen receptacles.



    In short: This is not a good idea unless you are prepared to install a "real" pendant power source.



    As far as the alternative of a floor outlet - that can easily solve most of these issues. However, a floor outlet will be too far away for modern kitchen appliances that typically have (based on modern kitchen electrical code) ~ 2 - 3 ft. cords. A hanging pendant (of the right type) does not have that problem.






    share|improve this answer














    There are pendants and there are pendants. An item like this Power Pendant Outlet Drop is designed for the purpose you describe. An ordinary residential grade hanging light is NOT. There are a few possible issues:




    • An ordinary hanging light fixture is designed to carry the weight of the fixture. It is not designed to handle frequent manipulation and the stress of daily plugging/unplugging of appliances.


    • An ordinary light fixture (hanging or a table lamp or whatever) will often have smaller size wire than needed for a full 15A or 20A circuit because the requirements (and associated UL testing/rating) are based on the fixture having a maximum continuous usage far lower than 15A or 20A. For example, a 6-bulb chandelier might be rated for 6 x 60W = 360W == 3A continuous usage. Therefore, it can have 18 AWG wires from the bulbs on up to the ceiling box. You do NOT want to run your toaster oven on 18 AWG wires.


    • Grounding - I do not know if ANY edison-base to receptacle adapters are available with proper 3-wire grounded receptacles. I know the ones I Google'd now (UL listed, name brand) are NOT grounded, and I suspect that by design it is not possible to have such an adapter properly grounded.


    • GFCI - If the lighting circuit is on a GFCI breaker (or downstream "Load" of a GFCI receptacle) then you are protected (and this helps mitigate the grounding concern). But if that is not the case then you would need to retrofit a GFCI breaker. If you can't do that (e.g., old fuse box or double-stuff breakers) then you are going against modern code for kitchen receptacles.



    In short: This is not a good idea unless you are prepared to install a "real" pendant power source.



    As far as the alternative of a floor outlet - that can easily solve most of these issues. However, a floor outlet will be too far away for modern kitchen appliances that typically have (based on modern kitchen electrical code) ~ 2 - 3 ft. cords. A hanging pendant (of the right type) does not have that problem.







    share|improve this answer














    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer








    edited 53 mins ago

























    answered 1 hour ago









    manassehkatz

    6,9981029




    6,9981029












    • I fully agree that most lights would not have large enough wires, in industrial facilities we have pendants in many locations in work areas above tables where a floor outlet would not stand up with proper cord grips and strain reliefs it won't look as nice as I would want in my home but it would be the proper way to do it.
      – Ed Beal
      36 mins ago










    • It depends on the "look". If you want an "artistic" look, this is a "NO". But if you go for steel counters & appliances and "commercial" look (i.e., professional chef wannabe) then a proper pendant might fit in just fine.
      – manassehkatz
      28 mins ago


















    • I fully agree that most lights would not have large enough wires, in industrial facilities we have pendants in many locations in work areas above tables where a floor outlet would not stand up with proper cord grips and strain reliefs it won't look as nice as I would want in my home but it would be the proper way to do it.
      – Ed Beal
      36 mins ago










    • It depends on the "look". If you want an "artistic" look, this is a "NO". But if you go for steel counters & appliances and "commercial" look (i.e., professional chef wannabe) then a proper pendant might fit in just fine.
      – manassehkatz
      28 mins ago
















    I fully agree that most lights would not have large enough wires, in industrial facilities we have pendants in many locations in work areas above tables where a floor outlet would not stand up with proper cord grips and strain reliefs it won't look as nice as I would want in my home but it would be the proper way to do it.
    – Ed Beal
    36 mins ago




    I fully agree that most lights would not have large enough wires, in industrial facilities we have pendants in many locations in work areas above tables where a floor outlet would not stand up with proper cord grips and strain reliefs it won't look as nice as I would want in my home but it would be the proper way to do it.
    – Ed Beal
    36 mins ago












    It depends on the "look". If you want an "artistic" look, this is a "NO". But if you go for steel counters & appliances and "commercial" look (i.e., professional chef wannabe) then a proper pendant might fit in just fine.
    – manassehkatz
    28 mins ago




    It depends on the "look". If you want an "artistic" look, this is a "NO". But if you go for steel counters & appliances and "commercial" look (i.e., professional chef wannabe) then a proper pendant might fit in just fine.
    – manassehkatz
    28 mins ago













    3














    The only problem I can see is that the wiring internal to a pendant lamp is probably not rated for the 20A that is typically needed for kitchen outlets.



    Another option might be a flush mounted floor outlet:



    floor outlet






    share|improve this answer


























      3














      The only problem I can see is that the wiring internal to a pendant lamp is probably not rated for the 20A that is typically needed for kitchen outlets.



      Another option might be a flush mounted floor outlet:



      floor outlet






      share|improve this answer
























        3












        3








        3






        The only problem I can see is that the wiring internal to a pendant lamp is probably not rated for the 20A that is typically needed for kitchen outlets.



        Another option might be a flush mounted floor outlet:



        floor outlet






        share|improve this answer












        The only problem I can see is that the wiring internal to a pendant lamp is probably not rated for the 20A that is typically needed for kitchen outlets.



        Another option might be a flush mounted floor outlet:



        floor outlet







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered 1 hour ago









        CoAstroGeek

        1,4351715




        1,4351715






















            Jacqueline Jackson is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.










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